Friday

If you are a shopaholic you'd better not come to Cuba. Apart from the supermarket near Hotel Nacional which is probably rigged up for tourists, there are no shops. The last time I encountered this was while crossing the Namib Desert in Southern Africa. Over there it seemed quite logical because springboks have not learned to shop yet. Excluding the types wearing green and gold jersys. But in the middle of Havana it is a strange phenomenon.

The fact that there are no hardware stores is obvious when you look at the decay of the buildings. But surely people must buy their salt and vinegar chips somewhere? How do they manage without their Estee Lauder Face Masks and their Molton Brown Bath and Shower Therapy? Also, mustn't every housewife have a Tupperware to keep fresh slices of lemon for their gin and tonics?

The absence of the USA does not come as a total surprise, but not even China has found Cuba on their GPSs yet. There are a few local craft markets around the hotel selling carved wooden figurines, Fidel Castro caps and oil paintings to tourists.

The tourists are mostly from Canada and Europe but strangely enough there is not the usual onslaught of badly dressed Germans. And no Russians. Havana is definitely not child friendly so leave your kids at home in front of their X-boxes. Disneyland Havana has not been built yet, so there is not much for them to do and they can't sink down in the oblivion of alcohol like the rest of us.

Next to our hotel is the Museo de la Revolucion where they keep the boat called "Grandma", an old luxury yacht that the revolutionaries used when they entered into Cuba from Mexico. It is now the centerpiece of the museum and stays inside a glass house. I hope it doesn't decide to start throwing stones.

Trying to find a place to consume supper outside the tourist hotels is not for the faint hearted. We have tried for three nights and walked past many restaurants completely empty. Perhaps the cooks are also trying to find a shop.